Read the instruction first!
Mistakes in the
Truck lower assembly.
the upper picture at the right below the section <<A>> is
This is wrong! The part right beside Part H22 is a section
H4 should not be cemented but put together dry and fixed after assembly
(see page 14).
of part H21 should appear at last! Because the part J24 needs to be
eventually and all other parts hinder that.
of upper and lower part should happen earlier. The lots of small parts
make a assembly hard to manage otherwise.
is to do the steps on page 15 first and then put together the upper and
lower part. After that all other parts can be added!
J43 should be hooked in only for the first. After aging etc. they can
the wire parts A and B from brass wire, not from the copper wire
the picture showing the assembly of the lock the part B26 is not shown!
It is positioned on the inside of B25 and grips in the notch right
When installing the machined barrel don't forgett the ballast inside
M7 is located on sprue M (rails, marked as MX2 in the Plan). The cavity
in parts C33 and C29 need to be treated with putty or superglue.
barrel can be exchanged by the machined aluminum barrel by Schatton/48
Special Models. Therefore take notice of the assembly instuctions
jig B17/B37 is colsed on the lower side (see pictures). Part B8 fits
in one direction! Check beforehand.
decals are a real task! Besides the fact the the numbering is wrong,
text are full of spelling mistakes! Some can be repaired by cutting out
single letters and changing their positions. But some letters simply
the only hope is to make your own decals or wait for a correct sheet by
a accessories manufacturer. Another way is dirting them up so they
some of the extra hard ones:
I interchanged some letters, but unfortunately the S and L are
Filling depressions (not feeling
Like said before
the lots of
depressions are the biggest weakness of the kit. Most of them occure
the ejectors that seperate the kitparts from the mould. Good moulds
show such depressions, because they are leveled with the mould surface.
Sink holes occure
material is injected with less pressure to the mould. Both defects are
a lack of quality, which could be prevented by the manufacturer.
on a kit means useing putty. It is recommended to check the parts
assembling them. Are the defects extrem return the kit to the retailer
you bought it from.
Small defects can be
with superglue or putty. This schould be done in several layers and
small amounts of material. The superglue will not set inside or has to
be sanded down in painstaking hard work. When useing putty it is almost
the same. The solvents can't evaporate and weaken the plastic. Which
in extrem the part will be damaged. Superglue is harder than plastic
therefore hard to sand. But it dries much faster and connects better to
the surface. Large gaps can be filled with a special glas bubble filler
for superglue. This filler kicks the superglue a little and prevents
up. The bubbles are hard and hard to sand therefore. So don't use too
Painting in between steps and
small parts and the hard to reach areas too should be painted before
(i.e.Mr Surface 500)
slightly (if necessary)
(dark wash, etc.
or gloss final varnish
steps are as follows:
a gloss clear varnish layer is done only once after final color
was applied. After applying the decals a single layer of clear varnish
is applied and sanded with 800-1000 grid wet sanding paper and lot of
over the decals afterwards. This will reduce the thickness of the clear
varnish layer so far that the decal will level after a second or third
layer of clear varnish. The decal edge will be almost invisible then.
take care while sanding. Only erase the clear varnish layer!
this finished the whole model gets a matt clear varnish (acrylic, if
coating. This means a lot more paint than usual depending to the size
the paint has set for at least 24 hours, that gave all paint layers
to dry, aging starts. Except for the wooden grids, which have been aged
beforehand with artists oil paints. The oils are applied on the brown
color and wiped off after the solvent has evaporated mostly. This makes
a nice wooden look.
whole gun was treated with a dark wash from brown and black oils which
have been thinned down with Humbrol thinner. With a broad, soft brush
whole model is drenched now (this takes the whole man). Also the
can be used. The wash will be let set a little and dry, then the
will be wiped off with a soft cloth. At hard to reach areas a Q-tip
Clean Humbrol thinner helps to lighten to dark areas. It is important
the last spraypainted layer was a water/alcohol based acrylic paint, to
prevent the thinner from eating the paint below! After drying a dry
can apear too with slightly lighter colors and or rust brown. Always
careful with less paint.
is almost impossible to prevent scratching the surface finish while
This meets the real thing too. The defects need to be touched up
with airbrush or brush. But applying a clear varnish has changed the
of the color slightly. This again causes stains. Also badly or less
paint or different manufaturers may cause this.
the primary paint tone (tank grey) should be filled from different cans
to a single bucket and stired well. If possible a lager can should be
instead. I used up about 5 cans of Tamiya XF-64 tank grey and the sixth
is ready to follow.
small difference in shades makes sense at all in this case too. Because
large objects like this needed to be touched up constantly. Differences
in tone are inevitable. That is why I used it consciously in this case.
ongoing color design should orient on historic pictures from that time.
Depending on the place of action some special features may occure.
completed lock block.
was painted with
Metalizer, polished and sealed with Gunze Metal Primer.
that the grease was done with oilpaints which have been applied and
off again. After the oils are dry it was again painted with clear
wooden walkway was primed with XF-10 brown with a brush and painted
a oils dark wash then. When dried almost, it was wiped of partionaly.
whole chassis was treated with a dark wash from black and dark brown
thinned with Humbrol thinner.
carriage was treated the same way. Beforehand touch up areas were
in places dirt tends to stay the wash should stay. After a short period
of drying the surplus is wiped off.
platform of the ammo container. Later gun versions had have an extended
platform on the container and a switch for two trolleys.
lock block is movable and can be taken out or pushed in completely (for
elevating the barrel).
ladders are not fixed on the top. So they can be adjusted in different
positions. The chains holding the hatch are made after original
muzzle of the Schatton/ 48 Special Models barrel. The grooves reach
the barrel for some cm. They where treated with oils too, to show them
better and simulate wear. The inner barrel tube was brought out by
of the paint with 800 grid sanding paper.
gun on its turntable. Always the front chassis is placed on the
elevation of the barrel is managed without mechanical blocking.
in low elevation. On some guns the recoil area were painted too.
this position the hoses on the front chassis need to be removed!
diorama will get additional figures, a waggon Typ Ommr and a
to bring it to life more.
diorama base is about 1,5m x 0,71m. It can be separated to show only